Florian Huguenin

Category: Five Days in Western Cameroon

A journey through the mist-shrouded hills and sacred traditions of Bamileke country. Explore five days of vibrant culture, volcanic landscapes, and the deep-rooted heritage of the West’s majestic chiefdoms.

  • D02 » Enjoying the Beauty of the Grassfield Country

    D02 » Enjoying the Beauty of the Grassfield Country

    D02 » Enjoying the Beauty of the Grassfield Country

    Today was a heavy day visiting the grassfield country. Our agenda included visits to many interesting cultural places.

    The mist still clung to the edges of the horizon on February 23, 2023, as we prepared for a heavy, soul-stirring day deep within the heart of Cameroon’s Grassfield country. This was the second day of our journey through the Bamileke region, a landscape where every hill seems to hold a legacy and every path leads toward ancient traditions. My intention for this expedition was never to merely rush through sights for the sake of a checklist; I wanted to linger in the stunning beauty of the western highlands and truly understand the pulse of these centuries-old chiefdoms.

    Our morning began with a quick breakfast in Tockem before we set out for Batoufam, located just 35km south of Bafoussam. The entrance to this chiefdom greeted us with an unexpected and delightful spectacle. While the beautifully decorated doors are a hallmark of the region, we found the path lined with alternating French and Cameroonian flags leading to a parking area filled with black 4x4s. We soon discovered the reason for this air of formality: the French ambassador was visiting His Majesty Innocent Nayang Toukam.

    The King was being honored as the “1st Most Dynamic King in the Development of Cameroon,” a title celebrated with a vibrant display of traditional warrior dances performed by the King’s wives and notables. In a stroke of travel luck, we were able to meet both the King and the ambassador, an opportunity that is rarely granted. Guided by an expert from Tourismo Cameroon, we wandered through specialized courtyards, from the blacksmiths’ square to the secluded area where a newly nominated King must remain until he fathers a first son. Before leaving, we visited a shop filled with the artistry of Yakouba, a master mask maker whose work turned my childhood fear of African masks into a profound appreciation for their craftsmanship.

    For lunch, we transitioned from the traditional to the opulent at the Tagidor Hotel near Bangou. It is a surreal oasis of luxury that once hosted the Senegal football team during AFCON 2022, yet it manages to feel intimately connected to the surrounding rugged landscape through its architecture. The sprawling gardens and fusion of local and international flavors provided a serene interlude, a moment of stillness where modern grandeur met the rustic beauty of the valley.

    The afternoon led us to the Bapa chiefdom, a place where history is written in the architecture. Bapa is famous for its iconic thatched-roof wooden huts, though many have now been adapted with durable materials to better withstand the elements. A perfect metaphor for the resilience and dynamism of the local culture. Although the ambassador’s departure meant we couldn’t enter the renowned museum, we spent our time with the customary guardians. Adorned in traditional attire, they served as a living embodiment of the heritage they protect.

    As the day reached its twilight, we found ourselves at the enigmatic Fovu cave in the village of Baham. More than just a geological feature, Fovu is a sacred sanctuary where the mystical and material worlds converge for the Grassfield people. Surrounded by a vast field of granite that has provided shelter for ritual practices over generations, we watched as the setting sun cast a golden hue over the rocks. There was a profound solemnity in the air, a spiritual communion that stayed with us as we finally returned to Tockem.

    From the royal celebrations of Batoufam to the quiet holiness of the cave, the day left us exhausted but deeply inspired, our minds filled with the rich chapters of a story that continues to unfold.

  • D01 » Dschang, First Contact with western Cameroon

    D01 » Dschang, First Contact with western Cameroon

    D01 » Dschang, First Contact with western Cameroon

    An adventure in Cameroon, Africa in miniature. We explored the majestic Ekom-Nkam falls, delved into history at Dschang’s Museum of Civilization.

    The heart of Cameroon beats with a vibrant rhythm, a land so diverse it is often called “Africa in miniature”. After a week of immersive work, the promise of the holidays finally arrived, bringing with it a gift more precious than rest: the chance to explore this majestic country alongside my parents. We set our sights on the western territories, a region where the rich heritage of the Bamileke and Bamum cultures is woven into the very fabric of the landscape.

    Our expedition took a professional turn in Douala when we met Serge from Tourismo Cameroon. While I have walked these paths before, this journey was different. I stepped into the role of a son, prioritizing my parents’ comfort and wonder. Enlisting a guide was the wisest path, ensuring our adventure would be a shared learning rather than just a logistical exercise.

    We began at dawn from Douala, chasing the sunrise toward the Ekom-Nkam waterfalls. After three hours on a challenging road, the forest rewarded us with air so invigorating it felt like pure liberation. Watching my parents gaze at the regal falls, cascading from over 80 meters, was a transformation in itself. They stood before the “Tarzan’s Tree”, a silent sentinel from the 1984 film, and walked through hidden cocoa fields where I introduced them to the pods that eventually become the chocolate the world loves. For them, this glimpse into tropical agriculture was a captivating revelation, a moment where nature whispered secrets of future delights.

    By midday, we pushed further into the Bamileke highlands toward Dschang. The journey there is not for the faint of heart; the road is a serpentine ribbon that hugs the cliffs, revealing breathtaking views of the valley that test and then reward the traveler’s spirit. Dschang itself is a city of youthful dynamism, fueled by a massive student population that has called this a center of learning since 1993. After a nourishing meal at the Fosso restaurant, we stood before the Museum of Civilizations.

    This museum is an architectural gem, a modern structure adorned with blue patterns and stylized animals that serve as a portal into the nation’s soul. Born from a partnership between Dschang and Nantes, France, the museum meticulously explores the four primary cultural groups of Cameroon: the forest, the water, the grasslands, and the north. Each section is a vivid tableau of traditional huts and tools. Though we were pressed for time, the passion of our guide brought the history of these diverse communities to life. It is a place that demands at least two hours to truly appreciate the depth of knowledge it offers.

    The day held one final, serendipitous surprise at the Alliance Francaise: a temporary exhibition titled “Re-connect”. Conceived by the university’s Department of Applied Foreign Languages, the showcase was a profound exploration of how we reclaim history to face future challenges. We spent an hour immersed in stimulating conversation with talented artists like the sculptor Marios Kenfack and the photographer Sidoine Yonta. Meeting these luminaries added a layer of intellectual richness to our journey, reminding us that art and academia are the bridges between our past and our future.

    As night fell, we found sanctuary in Tockem. We stayed in a guesthouse that is a testament to ecotourism, born from the vision of a Bamileke chief to live in harmony with nature. There, in the peaceful embrace of the highlands, we surrendered to rest, our hearts full of the kaleidoscope of emotions that only a day of true discovery can provide.