Category: Three Days in Northern Cameroon

Step into the vast, sun-drenched landscapes of the Cameroonian Sahel. These stories capture three days of dust and destiny, where the horizon stretches infinitely and ancient traditions breathe within the rhythmic heat of the North.

  • D03 » Exploring the enchanting Beauty of Lagdo Lake

    D03 » Exploring the enchanting Beauty of Lagdo Lake

    D03 » Exploring the enchanting Beauty of Lagdo Lake

    Lagdo Lake in Northern Cameroon captivated me. The journey revealed the country’s spirit, and the lake’s beauty impressed.

    The early morning light of Northern Cameroon has a way of kissing the untamed landscape that stirs a specific kind of hunger for adventure. It was under this gentle dawn that I began my quest to reach Lagdo Lake, a majestic marvel of the region that I had long yearned to behold. After a nourishing breakfast, I set out on the 70 kilometer journey southeast from Garoua, a drive that typically spans about an hour and a half. This path diverged from the route I had taken just two days prior to visit the Kola Gorges, offering me a fresh window into the country’s soul.

    To traverse the roads of Cameroon is to witness a vibrant tapestry of life in motion. It is less a simple passage through space and more a stage where the daily rhythms of the people unfold. You see vendors selling wares, locals locked in spirited debate, and cattle ambling leisurely across the pavement. The journey is adorned with diverse architectural wonders and an eclectic array of vehicles laden with goods that seem to defy convention. A true testament to the indomitable spirit of those who live here. While these roads are often challenging and dust-laden, they possess an exhilarating charm that makes every moment of the odyssey worth the effort.

    Upon arrival, the sheer scale of the Lagdo Reservoir is breathtaking. Created in 1982 with the construction of a dam for hydroelectric power, this massive artificial lake spans approximately 586 square kilometers along the Benue River. Framed by hills and rocky cliffs, the lake is a vital lifeblood for Northern Cameroon, providing irrigation, fishing, and water for domestic use. It has become a sanctuary for visitors drawn to its natural beauty, offering opportunities for bird watching, boating, and fishing. However, there is a fragility to this ecosystem; in recent years, the lake has faced the threat of declining water levels due to drought and the heavy demands of irrigation.

    If your travels lead you to these shores, a visit to the “Blue Lagoon” hotel is an essential experience. The hotel’s charming houses are nestled among hills that look like giant blocks of stone, offering an unobstructed view of the serene waters below. It is a place designed for “farniente”, the Spanish art of idleness, where one can lounge on a private beach under the shade of an umbrella. While waiting for a meal of fresh braised fish served with crispy plantains, the surrounding mineral hills beckon for exploration.

    I spent an hour climbing those sun-scorched rocks, mindful of the snakes and spiders that hide in the shadows, in search of the resident monkeys. These creatures are quite shy, often seeking refuge under massive boulders to escape the harsh sunrays. With the help of a 300mm lens, I was finally able to capture the likeness of a small group huddling in the shade.

    Returning from the hills just as the sun reached its peak, I found my meal perfectly prepared. Savoring the fresh catch with my feet tucked under the table, I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the raw, unfiltered pulse of life that defines this enchanting corner of Cameroon before beginning the drive back to Garoua.

  • D02 » A Day wandering in Garoua

    D02 » A Day wandering in Garoua

    D02 » A Day wandering in Garoua

    In Garoua’s heart, life unfolds. Beyond, the streets pulse with life, a vibrant tapestry woven with laughter and resilience.

    The heart of Garoua pulses with a rhythmic vitality, a vibrant tapestry of life woven from threads of laughter and the quiet resilience of the Sahel. On a beautiful Saturday morning, I awoke with a heart full of hope and that distinct excitement that only the promise of a new adventure can provide. While my visits to this city are typically driven by the demands of business, this day offered a rare and precious gift: the opportunity to set aside the briefcase and immerse myself entirely in the soulful depths of Sahelian culture. Under a brilliant sun, I set out determined to discover the very best of what Garoua had to offer.

    My exploration began at the city’s Zoological Park, a modest sanctuary in the city center easily identified by the colorful murals of elephants, lions, and giraffes that adorn its entrance. There was a time when these majestic creatures roamed the outskirts of the city, but today they are found further afield in the great national parks like Waza and Bouba Ndjida. Though the park is small enough to wander through in under an hour, it remains a place of wonder where one can come face-to-face with the sharp gaze of a hyena, the ancient patience of crocodiles, and a variety of spirited monkeys and birds. While the enclosures are aged and somewhat cramped, there is a visible sense of care in how well-fed and tended the animals appear. For a small fee, it is a moment of quiet reflection before stepping back into the bustling energy of the streets.

    Walking through Garoua is an exercise in mindfulness, a stark contrast to the manicured sidewalks of Europe. Here, the ground demands your attention. You must navigate roots, uneven earth, and the occasional hazard with care. Yet, despite the physical challenges and the watchful eye one must keep on their belongings, walking remains the most authentic way to connect with the spirit of Cameroon. As I strolled with my camera, I found myself captivated by the sheer grace of the local people. The women of the northern region possess a legendary beauty, draped in garments of such vivid color that they seem to defy the dusty landscape.

    As the morning progressed, the arid heat began its relentless ascent toward 40°C, a temperature that tests even the most seasoned traveler. I sought out the city’s green respites—parks and squares adorned with sculptures where families gathered on verdant lawns, likely kept lush by nightly watering. I marveled at the architectural beauty of the town hall, the new BEAC premises, and the striking silhouette of the newly built mosque. I moved with caution, however, mindful that the local police are protective of these public landmarks when it comes to photography.

    By midday, the heat became an entity of its own, forcing a temporary retreat. I returned to my hotel to rehydrate and find sanctuary in a cold shower, spending the hottest hours preparing for an upcoming seminar. For my second outing in the afternoon, I made a conscious choice to leave my phone and camera behind. There is a profound, meditative joy in experiencing a place without the urge to document it, allowing the sights and sounds of the city to wash over me undisturbed by technology.

    The day concluded with a final burst of energy. A run that pushed my physical limits against the lingering warmth, followed by an exquisite dinner at La Casa in the plateau district.

    As I reflected on the day’s journey, I felt a deep sense of belonging. At thirty-five, I am still far from my golden years, but Garoua has firmly planted a seed in my mind. It is a place where I could easily imagine settling down when the time finally comes to stop wandering.

  • D01 » Uncovering the fascinating Kola Gorge

    D01 » Uncovering the fascinating Kola Gorge

    D01 » Uncovering the fascinating Kola Gorge

    Explored North Cameroon during Ramadan, from Garoua to the Kola gorge. Immersed in vibrant culture and witnessed breathtaking landscapes.

    The air in Douala felt a lifetime away as I touched down in Garoua, the vibrant pulse of Northern Cameroon. I had arrived for a seminar I simply couldn’t miss, but destiny had offered me a far more profound invitation. My visit coincided with the closing days of Ramadan, granting me a front-row seat to the local traditions of a predominantly Muslim population during their most sacred season. Garoua itself is a city that immediately captures the soul. As the third-largest city in the country, it is a gateway of red sandy streets, bustling markets, and a hospitality that feels as warm as the Sahelian sun.

    Yet, there is a quiet weight to this beauty. The shadow of the terrorist group Boko Haram has lingered over these remote lands for years, making many of these stunning landscapes difficult to access. It is a place where you often see the unarmed vehicles of organizations like Doctors Without Borders, a somber reminder of the resilience required to live in such a captivating region. Despite these challenges, Northern Cameroon remains a must-see destination for any soul seeking an authentic African experience, rich with diverse ethnic customs and breathtaking national parks like Benoue and Bouba Ndjida.

    Eager to begin my own exploration, I set my sights on the Kola Gorges. The journey northeast from Garoua is an odyssey in three acts. It begins with 80 kilometers of smooth asphalt toward Maroua before turning onto a more intimate, less-traveled path toward Guider. The final chapter of this pilgrimage is a 5 kilometer sandy track that rewards the simple traveler. Upon arrival, the Gorges do not immediately surrender their secrets. They remain hidden like a treasure until you stand before the slender, towering cliffs carved by the relentless will of the river. This kingdom reveals its full glory only during the dry season, between October and April, when the water recedes to uncover a cathedral of stone.

    Descending the modest concrete staircase into the canyon feels like stepping out of time and into a mineral wonderland. Here, vegetation gives way to dark stones and fine sand, where the rocks have been polished smooth by centuries of water, yet remain occasionally razor-sharp from the force of erosion. I donned my sturdiest shoes to navigate this 4 kilometer passage, where nature has sculpted the rocks into recognizable figures. With the help of local youth guides, whose keen eyes and fascinating anecdotes are indispensable, I was able to spot the “Virgin Mary,” the “Heart,” and even a formation shaped like the continent of Africa. Supporting these young guides and purchasing a stone painted by local hands is a beautiful way to keep a piece of this enchanting place with you forever.

    Though my time in the Gorges was brief, less than two hours, the return journey to Garoua provided its own meditation. I marveled at the Sahelian architecture and the vivid colors of traditional attire that dappled the landscape. As I re-entered the city, the sun began its majestic descent, bathing the yellow sandy streets in a gentle, golden glow.

    It was a serene conclusion to my first day and a peaceful end to the holy month of Ramadan for my local friends. To see the world this way—through a blend of vibrant culture and awe-inspiring natural splendor—is to truly understand the spirit of Cameroon.

    Eid Mubarak to all who celebrate. May your own journeys bring such peace to your heart.