D01 » Dschang, First Contact with western Cameroon

An adventure in Cameroon, Africa in miniature. We explored the majestic Ekom-Nkam falls, delved into history at Dschang’s Museum of Civilization.

The heart of Cameroon beats with a vibrant rhythm, a land so diverse it is often called “Africa in miniature”. After a week of immersive work, the promise of the holidays finally arrived, bringing with it a gift more precious than rest: the chance to explore this majestic country alongside my parents. We set our sights on the western territories, a region where the rich heritage of the Bamileke and Bamum cultures is woven into the very fabric of the landscape.

Our expedition took a professional turn in Douala when we met Serge from Tourismo Cameroon. While I have walked these paths before, this journey was different. I stepped into the role of a son, prioritizing my parents’ comfort and wonder. Enlisting a guide was the wisest path, ensuring our adventure would be a shared learning rather than just a logistical exercise.

We began at dawn from Douala, chasing the sunrise toward the Ekom-Nkam waterfalls. After three hours on a challenging road, the forest rewarded us with air so invigorating it felt like pure liberation. Watching my parents gaze at the regal falls, cascading from over 80 meters, was a transformation in itself. They stood before the “Tarzan’s Tree”, a silent sentinel from the 1984 film, and walked through hidden cocoa fields where I introduced them to the pods that eventually become the chocolate the world loves. For them, this glimpse into tropical agriculture was a captivating revelation, a moment where nature whispered secrets of future delights.

By midday, we pushed further into the Bamileke highlands toward Dschang. The journey there is not for the faint of heart; the road is a serpentine ribbon that hugs the cliffs, revealing breathtaking views of the valley that test and then reward the traveler’s spirit. Dschang itself is a city of youthful dynamism, fueled by a massive student population that has called this a center of learning since 1993. After a nourishing meal at the Fosso restaurant, we stood before the Museum of Civilizations.

This museum is an architectural gem, a modern structure adorned with blue patterns and stylized animals that serve as a portal into the nation’s soul. Born from a partnership between Dschang and Nantes, France, the museum meticulously explores the four primary cultural groups of Cameroon: the forest, the water, the grasslands, and the north. Each section is a vivid tableau of traditional huts and tools. Though we were pressed for time, the passion of our guide brought the history of these diverse communities to life. It is a place that demands at least two hours to truly appreciate the depth of knowledge it offers.

The day held one final, serendipitous surprise at the Alliance Francaise: a temporary exhibition titled “Re-connect”. Conceived by the university’s Department of Applied Foreign Languages, the showcase was a profound exploration of how we reclaim history to face future challenges. We spent an hour immersed in stimulating conversation with talented artists like the sculptor Marios Kenfack and the photographer Sidoine Yonta. Meeting these luminaries added a layer of intellectual richness to our journey, reminding us that art and academia are the bridges between our past and our future.

As night fell, we found sanctuary in Tockem. We stayed in a guesthouse that is a testament to ecotourism, born from the vision of a Bamileke chief to live in harmony with nature. There, in the peaceful embrace of the highlands, we surrendered to rest, our hearts full of the kaleidoscope of emotions that only a day of true discovery can provide.