D02 » Enjoying the beauty of the Grassfield country
On this second day of our journey in the Bamileke country, a part of the Grassfield people’s region, we woke up refreshed and ready for a day that promised to be bustling with activities.
The goal wasn’t just to rush through as many sights as possible, but to truly appreciate each location and the stunning beauty of western Cameroon’s landscapes and chiefdoms. With this in mind, I had carefully planned our itinerary to make the most of our expedition.
Our agenda today included an enlightening visit to two chiefdoms, Batoufam and Bapa, and a journey into the mystical realms of the Fovu cave, a sanctuary woven with superstitions and the cradle of ancient beliefs.
Our day began with a quick breakfast in Tockem before heading to our first stop: the chiefdom of Batoufam, located a mere 35km south of Bafoussam on the road to Bangangte.
Our arrival at Batoufam was met with an unexpected and delightful surprise. The chiefdom’s entrance was marked by a beautifully decorated door, a common feature in Grassfield country, but what really caught my eye was the presence of French flags alongside the Cameroonian ones. This unusual sight added an element of intrigue to our visit.
As we approached the chiefdom, the entire path was lined with alternating French and Cameroonian flags, leading us to a parking area filled with black 4x4s. Curiosity got the better of us, and upon inquiring, we discovered that the French ambassador was visiting the Chief.
His Majesty Innocent Nayang Toukam, King Batoufam, had organized a spectacular display of traditional warrior dances in honor of his distinguished visitor, who was there to award him the title of “1st Most Dynamic King in the Development of Cameroon” for the second time.
The celebration was a vibrant and unforgettable experience, with the King’s wives and the chiefdom’s notables all in attendance.
Following the celebration, we toured the chiefdom, a fantastic opportunity that allowed us to meet both King Batoufam and the French ambassador, both of whom are not easily accessible. I even managed to take a portrait of the king!
The day still had more surprises in store for us.
We engaged a specialized guide from Tourismo Cameroon for this part of our visit, eager to learn as much as we could about the culture, traditions, and symbolism of the chiefdom. The chiefdom was divided into several courtyards, each with its own function, like the blacksmiths’ square and the traditional healer’s area.
There’s also a fascinating tradition where the King is confined in a courtyard after his nomination until he fathers a son. This part of our visit was particularly interesting, and as we admired the magnificent carved wooden pillars and vivid wall paintings, we moved on to the shop.
Visiting the shop was like stepping into a world of the Grassfield people’s artistry, especially their masks. I remember being scared of African masks as a child, but I have since overcome this fear and was able to fully appreciate this collection, personally curated by the mask maker, Yakouba.
After spending a significant part of the morning at Batoufam, we headed to Tagidor for lunch. This luxury hotel, which hosted the Senegal football team during AFCON 2022, is an extraordinary place, luxurious yet seemingly out of place in its remote setting.
Our midday sojourn at Tagidor Hotel was an experience of opulence and serenity amidst the vibrant journey through Cameroon’s Grassfield region.
Nestled in a secluded valley near Bangou, the Tagidor stands as a testament to luxurious tranquility in contrast to its rustic surroundings. Its architecture, a harmonious blend of modern luxury and environmental consciousness, offered a respite that felt both grandiose and intimately connected to the landscape.
The hotel boasts an array of amenities that seamlessly integrate the region’s natural beauty. Its sprawling gardens and walking paths invited us to momentarily forget our itinerary and indulge in the serenity. The hotel’s culinary offerings were a delightful fusion of local flavors and international cuisine.
As we left Tagidor, the promise of returning for a more extended stay lingered in our thoughts. The hotel, with its exceptional blend of luxury and location, merited a dedicated exploration, which I eagerly planned to cover in a future article.
The Bapa chiefdom, our subsequent destination, presented a vivid tapestry of cultural heritage and architectural evolution. Known for its iconic wooden huts with thatched roofs, a hallmark of traditional Grassfield architecture, Bapa has adapted these structures with more durable materials to withstand the challenges of weather and time. This blend of tradition and adaptation spoke volumes about the resilience and dynamism of the local culture.
Our visit coincided with the departure of the French ambassador’s delegation, adding an unexpected layer of excitement to our exploration. Although this meant we couldn’t access the chiefdom’s renowned museum, we seized the opportunity to engage with the village’s customary guardians. Adorned in traditional attire, they were a living embodiment of the chiefdom’s rich heritage. This brief yet profound interaction was a reminder of the deep roots and enduring customs that define Bapa.
Our final destination for the day was the enigmatic Fovu cave. Situated in the village of Baham, this site transcends its physical manifestation as a mere geographical feature. For the Grassfield people, the Fovu cave is a sacred space, a spiritual haven where the material and mystical realms converge. The cave, surrounded by a sprawling field of granite, provided natural shelters that have been integral to various ritual practices over generations.
We spent our time there enveloped in the cave’s solemn ambiance, as the setting sun cast a golden hue over the granite, creating a tableau of breathtaking beauty. This was not just a visit; it was a communion with a place that has cradled centuries of spiritual practices. As dusk fell and we departed, the cave’s solemnity and the serene beauty of its surroundings left a profound impact on us.
Returning to Tockem, our minds were filled with the day’s rich experiences. From the luxurious interlude at Tagidor to the cultural immersion in Bapa and the spiritual connection at Fovu cave, each moment was a chapter in a larger story of discovery and awe. As night enveloped us, the anticipation of what the next day might bring kept our spirits high and curious.
